Newbie Tuesday: Gels, gels, gels! Chamomile & cucumber oil free gel moisturizer for dry skin types

We took a look at making a toner by including Ultrez 20 with a neutralizer, and we made a toner/oil free gel moisturizer for normal skin types by adding ingredients to pre-made gel yesterday. Let's take a look at making a chamomile and cucumber oil free gel moisturizer/toner both ways.

VERSION 1: MAKE A GEL, THEN ADD TO IT

MAKING A THICK GEL WITH ULTREZ 20
96.5% distilled water
1.2% Carbopol Ultrez 20
1.6% triethanolamine or 18% lye solution*
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Add your Ultrez 20 to water and mix gently to get all the flakes wet. You'll know they're wet enough when they are transparent or clear in the container, like the picture to the left. Let sit for 3 to 5 minutes, then add the TEA or 18% lye solution. Mix well. If you'll be storing the gel as is, please add the liquid Germall Plus or other suitable preservative. If you will be using it right away in other products, leave it out and incorporate a preservative into the next recipe.

CHAMOMILE & CUCUMBER OIL FREE GEL MOISTURIZER OR TONER FOR DRY SKIN TYPES (version 1)
LIQUID PHASE
30% hydrosol of choice - rose water and lavender are good choices for dry skin
2% glycerin
2% panthenol
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

POWDER PHASE
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% powdered cucumber extract
0.5% allantoin

GEL PHASE
64% thick gel

Weigh your liquid phase into a container, mix well, then add the powdered chamomile extract and allantoin, and mix well until dissolved. Add the rest of the ingredients in any order, mix well, then pour into a bottle to be used as a toner or oil-free moisturizer.

If you feel this is too thick, add 10% more distilled water or other liquid, mix well, and see what you think. Or substitute 10% aloe vera for 10% of the distilled water as this will thin it down quite a lot.

VERSION 2: MAKE THE GEL AS PART OF THE PROCESS OF MAKING THE RECIPE

CUCUMBER & CHAMOMILE OIL FREE MOISTURIZER OR TONER FOR DRY SKIN TYPES (version 2)
WATER PHASE
51.2% distilled water
30% rose water or lavender hydrosol
2% glycerin
0.5% allantoin
1.2% Ultrez 20

NEUTRALIZATION PHASE
1.6% triethanolamine or 18% lye solution

EXTRACTS AND PRESERVATIVES PHASE
10% distilled water, slightly warmed
2% panthenol
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% powdered cucumber extract
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

1. Add all the ingredients in the water phase, except the Ultrez 20, in order into a container.

2. Add your Ultrez 20 to water and let sit for 3 to 5 minutes, depending upon how much powder you have used. (0.5% takes 3 minutes, up to 3% takes 5 minutes). Mix gently to get all the flakes wet. You'll know they're wet enough when they are transparent or clear in the container, like the picture to the left.

3. Add the neutralizer. This is a very alkaline ingredient that you add to the very acidic Ultrez 20 to create the gel. You can use an 18% sodium hydroxide solution, an 18% potassium hydroxide solution, or triethanolamine. Stir well until it thickens.

4. Dissolve the powdered extracts into about 10% slightly warmed distilled water and mix until dissolved. Add this along with the liquid Germall Plus and mix well. You're done! Yay!

If you find this product is too thick for your tastes, you can reduce the amount of Ultrez 20 you use to 0.9% and use 1.2% neutralizer. If it's still too thick, reduce the amount of Ultrez 20 to 0.6% to 0.8% neutralizer. Or you could add something like aloe vera at 10%, which will reduce the viscosity quite a bit - more than it would by just adding more water. Or you could add a hydrolyzed protein at 2%. It's amazing how a very thick gel can become very thin by the inclusion of just 2% silk amino acids!

As with other versions, if you find the colour of the extract annoying, you could use hydrosols instead  - start at 10% and see what you think - or try a colourless version of the extract.

Join us tomorrow as we take a look at making a chamomile & rosemary gelled toner/oil free moisturizer with Ultrez 20.

If you'd like to play along or if you've missed a post, here's a listing of the complete series...
Newbie Tuesday: We're making facial products! 
Shopping list
Equipment list
Let's start making facial cleansers! - Your skin type
Surfactants - what are they?
Meet the surfactants
pH of our surfactants
Facial products - the base recipe
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part one) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser (part two) - physical exfoliants
Turning your cleanser into an exfoliating cleanser by adding chemical exfoliants
Modifying your facial cleanser into a foamer bottle recipe
Creating a facial toner (part one)
Creating a facial toner (part two)
Creating a facial toner (part three) - cosmeceuticals
Creating a facial toner (part four) - adding cosmeceuticals
Gels, gels, gels! Ultrez 20
Gels, gels, gels! Sepimax ZEN
Making a gelled toner with Ultrez 20
Making a lavender & chamomile gel moisturizer with Ultrez 20

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